The most difficult job when replacing the bearing can be the removal of the hub cap, it is simply pushed in but can be hard to get out without damaging it.
We suggest using either wood or rubber mallet to tap the cap on the side at as much of an angle so as to move the cap away from the hub, this should be done while turning the hub slowly. The hub cap should start moving way from the hub and then come away completely. This can be done without damaging the cap but sometimes its so stubborn that the cap can become dented, if its not too damaged it can still be replaced.
Under the cap you should find a M10 locknut, using a 17mm socket this should be removed, it's a standard right hand thread (on both sides). Remove the washer and the complete hub should slide off the stub axle. We usually leave the wheel on so that it can aid removing the hub, a bit more to hold on to. If its very stubborn then using the mallet again, tap around the inside edge of rim in random places may help. If this fails then a hub puller may be the only option, these can be obtained from a local DIY motor accessory stop. Just follow the instructions that come with the puller.
Since the bearings are going to be replaced there is no real need to remove them intact, so using any method that suits you should be fine as long as the aluminium casting is not damaged in any way. Probably the most obvious way is using a small cold chisel or flat headed screw driver put through the opposite bearing and tapping evenly around the bearing so that it remains level in the casting until its all the way out.
Ideally, the new bearings should be replaced using suitable press but failing this usually a socket or tube with an external diameter of 40mm for the inside bearing and 35mm of the inside bearing it should be possible to tap the bearings into place being very careful not to damage the seals. It may also be possible to use the old bearings as drifts to replace the new, you may find it tricky when installing the outer bearings though.
Once the bearings are in place, slide the hub back onto the stub axle followed by a new washer and lock nut. Tighten the nut sufficiently to ensure the bearings are seated with no 'end float', no final torque setting has been supplied by Erde for this nut, we would recommend no more than 29Nm (21ftlb). The cap can then be replaced, push in by hand as far as possible and the tap in the centre with a rubber mallet until fully home, this should leave about 14mm of cap above the casting. Replace the wheel, if removed and torque the nuts up to 70Nm (52ftlb).